GCC RAINIER CLIMB: DISAPPOINTMENT CLEAVER

GETTING THERE

From SR 7 in Elbe, turn east onto SR 706, both known as the National Park Highway. Continue through the Nisqually Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park. Be prepared to pay the fee just after entering the park. Drive 19 miles to Paradise. Park in the overnight parking area.

ASCENT / APPROACH ROUTE

Called the "DC Route," this is the most popular route to the summit of Washington state's highest mountain. Climb 9,000 feet on snowfields and glaciers. Travel a short distance on rock on the cleaver and possibly cross ladders. Enjoy a "top of the world" view from the summit. Many climbers on summer weekends often cause bottlenecks.

Hike from Paradise (5,420 ft), take Skyline Trail and follow obvious tread past Panorama Point (6,800 ft) at 2.5 mi Route continues over Pebble Creek (7,200 ft) and up to Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir (10,080 ft), 2.7 mi from Panorama Point. 

The compass bearing from Pebble Creek to Moon Rock is 350° true north, and 344° from Moon Rocks to Camp Muir. The reverse compass bearings are 170° and 164°, respectively. 

From Camp Muir follow obvious traverse of the upper Cowlitz and scramble the Cathedral Rocks Ridge to gain access to the Ingraham Glacier (10,500 ft). Traverse the glacier (Ingraham Flats) to the lower southern base of Disappointment Cleaver. This traverse should be done as quickly as possible due to overhanging seracs. The route onto the Cleaver is approximately 300 ft above the Cleaver's nose.

Continue to the top of the Cleaver (12,300 ft) and climb as directly to the east crater rim as crevasses will allow. To gain the true summit, scramble down into the crater and cross directly to the west crater rim. The summit register is just below and northeast of the true summit (14,411 ft) by a large boulder. 

Time:  5-6 hrs TH to camp, 5-8 hrs camp to summit

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TRIP PROFILE

TH – PARADISE / SKYLINE – 5,420’

CAMP – MUIR – 10,100’

MT RAINIER SUMMIT – 14,411’

TRAILHEAD TO CAMP

TIME – 5-6 HRS

ELEVATION GAIN – 4,660’

CAMP TO SUMMIT

TIME – 5-8 HRS

ELEVATION GAIN – 4,331’

SUMMIT TO CAMP – 2-3 HRS

CAMP TO TH – 2-3 HRS

KEEP CLIMBING MOUNTAINS & DON'T SLIP!!