GCC GRADUATION CLIMB

ELDORADO PEAK / EAST RIDGE

INSTRUCTOR LEADS

GETTING THERE

Drive I-5 to just north of Mount Vernon, then east on SR 20 (North Cascades Highway) to Marblemount. At Marblemount, and turn right onto Cascade River Road. Follow it to a large parking area on the right at about mile mark 20 and elevation 2,100 ft.

ASCENT / APPROACH ROUTE

A basic glacier climb with a little bit of everything. Prepare for a longer first day with a more strenuous start that tapers as you ascend to high camp. Start with a wide log crossing, strenuous approach through the woods, boulder field, drop down to glacier and arrive at high camp at 7800 ft. 5700 ft of elevation gain to camp, ending with a knife-edge snow ridge leading to the true summit. Outstanding views into the North Cascades. 

From the parking area backtrack downstream about 90 feet on the road (look for possible flagging), looking for a clump of three trees crossing the river, or one large log. Cross the river and walk about 100 feet perpendicular to the river until you find a climbers' trail.

Go right, or east, upstream on the trail. Proceed up and slightly right in open timber following climbers' trail. Stay to the right (east) of the large windfall and traverse up so that Eldorado Creek is within earshot. After about 1500 feet of elevation gain, reach the lower boulder field. Ascend the boulders (cairns and flags; do not cross Eldorado Creek) with large cliffs on the left. Ascend in the center of the lower boulder field and into cliffs with an optional climbers' trail to the upper boulder field.

Ascend up and right (east), picking up segments of fair-to-good way trails into a large basin at about 5,500-5,800 ft. Move up onto the ridge on the left to small, but level camp spots (6,100 ft). Look for way to drop down into Roush Creek Basin

From Roush Creek Basin, proceed up snowfields and Eldorado Glacier just left (west) of rocky ridge. Follow this to the broad flat area of Inspiration Glacier at about 7,500 ft – find the high camp near the rocks. The most scenic composting toilet in the Pacific Northwest is here! Traverse Inspiration Glacier around to north and follow the broad snow-covered ridge to top (8,868 ft). The summit ridge is a spectacular knife-edge of snow.

Time: 7-9 hrs TH to camp, 1-2 hrs camp to summit

https://www.summitpost.org/eldorado-peak/150316

TRIP PROFILE

TH – CASCADE RR, MM 20 – 2100’

CAMP – HIGH CAMP – 7800’

ELDORADO SUMMIT – 8868’

TRAILHEAD TO CAMP

TIME – 7-9 HRS

ELEVATION GAIN – 5700’

CAMP TO SUMMIT

TIME – 1-2 HRS

ELEVATION GAIN – 1068’

SUMMIT TO CAMP – 1 HR

CAMP TO TH – 4-5 HRS

KEEP CLIMBING MOUNTAINS & DON'T SLIP!!